Sasha's Kitchen: New Orleans Style Beignets and Creole Bloody Mary

So, for the second time on this blog, I am sharing a recipe for beignets. But, as I discovered in the New Orleans Brunch class I took at The Brooklyn Kitchen in Williamsburg, this recipe is much, much better. First off, the beignets were much lighter - perfect and airy, just the way they should be using this recipe for the dough. I think this one is much closer to the classic Cafe Du Monde recipe. Furthermore, traditional beignets are closer to square shaped and much smaller that the giant donut-hole like beignets that I made last time. If you want them to be small, like I did, this recipe makes quite a few, still. So last week when I made these beignets for dessert of a nice brunch, I still cut the recipe in half. But I am posting the entire recipe here. In addition, I am including a recipe for creole bloody mary's that is a perfect brunch pairing that I learned in the class, but I recommend serving beignets with Cafe Du Monde's chicory coffee (a treat we had in the class).

Beignets (recipe from the Encyclopedia of Cajun and Creole Cuisine by John Folse)
1 package dry active yeast
4 T warm water
3 1/2 cups plus 2 T flour
1 tsp salt
1/4 cup sugar
 1 1/4 cups milk
3 eggs, beaten
1/4 cup melted butter
canola oil for deep frying
powdered sugar for dusting

Combine the yeast and warm water and set aside for about 10-15 minutes until it gets foamy and frothy. Stir in the yeast mixture, milk, eggs and butter. Combine the flour, salt and sugar in a separate bowl. Combine the dry and wet ingredients until it forms a dough. I did this using my mixer, but you could also do this by hand. Allow to rise in a warm place, covered with a damp dish towel, for one hour. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, and then roll out to 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. Cut into 3'' squares (2'' is really fine as well, remember ing that they get much larger when fried). Cover and let rest for ten minutes. Deep fry the beignets in canola oil (which is much healthier than vegetable oil - my substitution) in oil heated to 350 for about two minutes on each side until golden brown and puffed. Remove from oil and let drain on a paper towel. Dust with powdered sugar and serve right away. This full recipe makes about 30-40.

And for the perfect brunch, serve with the pickapeppa recipe for creole bloody marys:
3 oz vodka
1 1/2 cups tomato juice
2 1/2 oz bullion or beef stock
1 T lime juice
2 tsps pickapeppa sauce
2 tsps worcestershire sauce
2 drops hot sauce
1/4 tsp salt
celery stick (I actually recommend using spiced, pickled green beans instead if you can either make or buy some)

Combine all ingredients except the celery or green beans, shake and serve!

Sasha's Kitchen: New Orleans Style Beignets and Creole Bloody Mary

Sasha's Kitchen: New Orleans Style Eggs Sardou

I am a big fan of cooking classes at Williamsburg's The Brooklyn Kitchen. Its a great place to learn new recipes, cooking skills and a great environment to cook with others. About a week ago, I took the New Orleans Brunch cooking class with Emily Casey and learned and helped make a bunch of fun New Orleans recipes, including beignets, shrimp remoulade, eggs sardou, creole grillades and grits, Commander's Palace bread pudding souffle and creole blood mary's. It was a great time and after the class, I couldn't wait to try out some (well most) of these recipes on my husband. So this past weekend, I made a nice brunch for Brad with some of these recipes. My eggs sardou came out pretty good as I practiced one of the skills I learned in the class - egg poaching. I still need to work to poach a bit more gently, but I am getting the hang of it. I have included the whole recipe below, although I only made six poached eggs for the two of us yesterday. Also, since I don't eat ham, I left that out both of the recipe below and my own version.

Eggs Sardou (recipe adapted from the Encyclopedia of Cajun and Creole Cuisine by John Folse)
8 poached eggs (see below for instructions on poaching)
1 T white vinegar
8 cooked or canned artichoke bottoms
1 T butter
1 T flour
1 cup milk
4 cups cleaned, fresh spinach leaves
salt, pepper and tabasco sauce to taste
1 cup hollandaise sauce

Hollandaise Sauce
3 egg yolks
1 T lemon juice
 1 stick butter
1/2 tsp salt1/8 tsp cayenne, or a few drops of tabasco

Rince the artichoke bottoms (mine were canned). Cover with lightly salted water in a saucepan and simmer five to ten minutes until tender but not overcooked.

Add butter to a pot and melt, incorporating with the flour. Whisk in the milk and let come to a boil, then reducing to a simmer. Let simmer for five minutes, and then add the salt, pepper and tabasco to taste. Sir in the spinach into this béchamel sauce, one cup at a time, allowing each cup to wilt before adding the next.

When ready to serve, poach the eggs into a pot of boiling water with a tablespoon of white vinegar added. Gently break the eggs apart and release into the poaching solution. Gently fold over the whites and when they are done after a few minutes remove with a slotted spoon.

To make the hollandaise, melt the butter slowly in a sauce pan. Put cayenne, egg yolks, lemon juice and salt in the blender. Blend at medium to high speed about 20-30 seconds until it lightens in color. Then, lowering the blender speed to low, slowly add the melted butter while the blender is going. The resulting sauce should be buttery, lemony and just a tad salty.

To assemble, top each artichoke bottom with creamed spinach, a poached egg, and drizzle with hollandaise, and sprinkle with a bit of cayenne. My husband loved this - it's the perfect springtime brunch entree!

Below, I have included some pictures from the NOLA Brunch cooking class at the Brooklyn Kitchen as well.

Cafe du Monde's chickery coffee, used to make a NOLA style Cafe Au Lait. 

Creole bloody mary and a delicious beignet! Yum!

Shrimp remoulade

A whole bunch of yummy eggs sardou 

Creole grillades and grits (veal chops)

Commander's Palace bread pudding souffle with a whiskey sauce - a real NOLA treat using the recipe from the famous Garden District restaurant!

Sasha's Kitchen: New Orleans Style Eggs Sardou

Matt's Kitchen In D.C.: Cajun Jambalaya

In honor of the Saints' aggressive victory over the Colts, I am posting a recipe for jambalaya, which happens to be what I was eating during the game. This a cajun jambalaya, in contrast with a creole jambalaya (or "red jambalaya"), which includes tomatoes and seafood. This version contains smoked sausage, chicken and, ideally, tasso - a smoked and spiced ham. Creole jambalaya originated as an attempt by Spaniards to make paella in the New World (absent saffron). Gradually, this dish was introduced to the Cajuns in Lousiana's low country who adapted it the ingredients that they had available. Cajun jambalaya (or "brown jambalaya") is traditionally smokier and spicier than creole jambalaya. The beauty of jambalaya is, of course, that it can be made with a wide variety of ingredients- essentially, whatever is lying around and needs to be eaten. For cajun jambalaya, the smokiness is key so it is important to find some good smoked sausages, like andouille.

1 lb. andouille or other smoked pork sausage
1 – 1 ½ lbs. chicken thighs
½ lb. tasso, cut in 1 inch cubes (if not available, can substitute any smoked pork)
1 medium onion, chopped.
2 tsp minced garlic
1 tbsp. chopped basil leaves
1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme
3 cups chicken stock
1 ½ cups rice

*This recipe should serve 6-8 people. If you are feeding a large crowd, you can double it, but be sure you have a pot that is big enough.

Three important notes concerning ingredients:

First, Tasso is a heavily smoked ham with a spicy, peppery rind. It is hard to find outside of Louisiana but it will take the dish to whole new level if you can find it. In the past I have ordered over the internet at comeaux.com or had someone visiting New Orleans bring me back some. However, if you can’t get some, don’t panic! Any smoked pork will do, and failing that you could add some other type of ham, which while admittedly not the same thing, will do in a pinch.

Second note: Use good quality sausage for this, fresh if possible. The sausages at the Whole Foods deli counter are a good bet. Keep in mind that the sausage ingredients are flavoring the whole dish, so you want them to be strong and good quality.

Third note: Use good quality, homemade chicken stock for this dish – it makes a world of difference. If you do not have stock stashed away in the freezer, just be sure you have a chicken carcass (or a bunch of chicken bones) saved, and a simple but strong stock can be made in a few hours with the addition of some carrots, celery, peppercorns and bay leaves.

Also, don’t use chicken breasts in place of thighs. There is a good chance they will dry out during cooking and toughen up, whereas thighs are much better suited for this type of cooking

1) put the sausages in pan with water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let simmer for ten minutes.

2) In the meantime, chop the chicken things into large-ish bite size pieces. If they are boneless, great – if not, you will have to bone them. The easiest way is find the chopped end of the bone, strip the meat down the bone to the joint, then cut out the joint and remove the bone altogether. You will be left with a nice strip of meat. Set aside the chopped chicken.

3) Remove the sausages from the pan and cut into ¼ inch rounds with a serrated knife. They should be cooked enough to hold together, don’t sweat it if they are a little raw in the middle.

4) In a large pot or dutch oven, add a little olive oil and then the sausages. Saute them over medium heat until browned, maybe 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

5) Without cleaning, add the chicken to the pot and sauté over medium heat until starting to brown. Remove and set aside with the sausage.

6) In the same pot, add the chopped onion and garlic and cook until the onion softens, maybe 7 minutes. Then add the tasso or smoked ham, basil, thyme, some salt and pepper and cook for a few more minutes. Don't be shy about stirring up the brown bits stuck to the pot, this is where the "brown" in "brown jambalaya" comes from, like the "fond" in french cooking. If you like it spicy, you could shake some cayenne pepper in it at this point. Remove all ingredients and store them with the sausage and chicken.

What you have at this point is the jambalaya “base,” which basically means everything except the stock and the rice. You can make it ahead of time and store it the fridge, even a day in advance if necessary.

7) When you are ready to finish the dish, put the "base" in a large pot and add the stock and the rice. Stir thoroughly to combine, then bring to a boil. As soon as it begins to boil, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes.

8) After 25 minutes, take the cover off and stir again to evenly distribute the rice and the meat. Season with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve with hot sauce on the side.

Matt's Kitchen In D.C.: Cajun Jambalaya

Sasha's Kitchen: New Orleans French Quarter Beignets ('Doughnuts')

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My husband's coworkers are very lucky today, because they are going to get to try some excellent beignets.  As it turns out, I have forty doughnuts, which is certainly more than my husband and I can eat while they are still fresh.  When I prepared this recipe, I forgot that I was cooking for personal reasons, and not to keep a small bakery in business.  Thus, I have quite a few extras.

New Orleans is known for its distinctive cuisine.  This great American city has seen its share of tragedy and heartbreak in the aftermath of Hurricaine Katrina, but has nonetheless maintained its reputation for its ethnic and multicultural cuisine - from Cajan to Creole to to shrimp gumbo to beignets to to King Cakes to chicory coffee.  Everyone I have known who has professed to love New Orleans (which is pretty much everyone I know who has ever lived there) has had numerous memories of the food.  With all this history on mind, I decided to make New Orleans' signature doughnut, the beignet, tonight.  So here's a recipe for you to enjoy, a month and a half in advance of Mardi Gras - New Orleans' biggest party.

Beignets, or New Orleans doughnuts, derive from the French word for "fritter."  According to my reading, beignets have been associated with Mardi Gras, since at least the 16th Century, and are distinctive of New Orleans' famous French Quarter.  It is thought that they may have been introduced to certain provincial / Mediterranean areas of France during the middle ages, while those parts of France were under the rule of the Islamic Moors (from Spain).  Regardless of these origins, the French brought beignets with them in the 18th Century when they settled Louisiana, and the rest is history. 

Beignets are square-shaped fried pieces of yeast dough, usually about two inches in diameter, which are then coated in powdered sugar.  (The doughnuts also instantly reminded me of the funnel cakes I ate as a kid).  If you enjoy coffee, I've been advised that a true New Orleans local would have their beignets with Chicory Coffee, at places such as Cafe Du Monde. 

Here is the recipe that I used to prepare the beignets, courtesy of the Food Network.  It is important to note that I cut the recipe in half and still made forty beignets.  The recipe I listed here is the half recipe that I prepared.

3/4 cups warm water
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 envelopes dry active yeast  (I used a bit more than the recipe called for, and it worked out fine - just wanted to avoid problems with the dough rising)
1 egg, slightly beaten
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup evaporated milk
3 1/2 cups bread flour  (I used King Arthur Bread Flour, which is the best bread flour on the market)
1/8 cup shortening (I used Crisco)
Canola Oil, for deep frying
Several cups of confectioner's sugar

First, put the water, yeast and sugar in a bowl.  Allow to sit in a warm place for 15 minutes until the yeast becomes frothy and is fully activated.  In a separate bowl, beat the egg, evaporated milk and salt.  Mix the egg mixture with the yeast.  Then mix this entire mixture with the flour and shortneing in the basin of your artisan mixer, until it forms a dough.  Then allow the dough to rise, covered, in a well-oiled bowl for about two hours.  The dough will rise, but it will not double in size, like if you were making Challah or Brioche.

Roll the dough out to 1/4 inch thickness and form into 1/4 inch squares.  I actually made some of mine a little bigger than this - not a big deal, as they still taste delicious.  However, keep in mind that they do increase in size during the deep frying process. 

Deep fry, flipping often, until they become a golden color.  You can either deep fry using a deep fryer, in which case I recommend carefully following the operating and safety instructions.  However, you can safely execute this recipe without a deep fryer, by using several inches of oil in a stick pot.  I followed these stepwise deep frying instructions to prepare the beignets with my husband; it was quite safe and easy, too.

Once the doughuts are done frying, put on paper towels for a minute or two to absorb some of the excess oil.  Then, while they are still hot, pick them up with your tongs and toss them in a bag filled with a couple of cups of confectioner's sugar.  Time for some delicious indulgence.

Sasha's Kitchen: New Orleans French Quarter Beignets ('Doughnuts')