Matt's Kitchen In D.C. - Durian Cheesecake

First of all, what is a durian? It is an imposing-looking tropical fruit native to Southeast Asia, where it has been crowned the "King of Fruits," and rightfully so. Certainly there is no other fruit like it anywhere - it is capable of inspiring both passionate devotion and utter revulsion. The fruit announces its presence with a strong and pungent odor that is simultaneously fruity sweet and rotten and oniony. This smell alone is enough to turn away many, and is strong enough that in some Southeast Asian countries, durian have been banned from public transportation and hotel rooms. So why even bother with this ugly and noxious smelling fruit? Once cut open, the durian yields soft fleshy insides that have an almost indescribeable but exquisite flavor - a smooth, refreshing and delicious tropical custard, but with a hint of an underlying strong flavor, that some have likened to onions, and others to almonds. Certainly, durian tastes like no other fruit on the planet. And I should point out that it is an acquired taste - while one person may become a devotee for life, a second person may be turned off at their first taste. It is, however, the sort of thing that everyone should try once - if you like it, the rewards are quite great. That being said, the mere smell alone may be enough to deter some people, and there is nothing that can really be done about that.

Durian can be bought at Asian groceries either as a whole fruit or in frozen portions. Buying a whole fruit can be expensive and, I have been told, it is extremely difficult to know if your fruit is properly ripened. An over-ripe durian may be much more offensive than a properly ripened one and can make a very bad first impression. For the purposes of this recipe, it may be best to go with frozen, which should not have ripeness issues.

The following is a cheesecake recipe that features durian prominently. This is admittedly not a particularly complex or refined cheesecake recipe - the goal was to come up with a simple, no-bake recipe that allowed the deliciousness of the fruit to take center stage. However, ultimately it produces a very decent cheesecake, made even tastier with addition of the durian. Additionally, I took the shortcut of using pre-made pie shells which is because I ran short of time and did not want to be wrestling with crusts - however, if you want to make your own crust, there are hundreds of cheesecake recipes online that will instruct on making a crust and, if desired, using a springform pan to make an actual cake, rather than a pie. This recipe will make two pie-size cheesecakes, or one 8-inch cake. If you are serving to people who are unfamilar with durian, my suggestion is to make a pie which will yield smaller slices - you can just halve this recipe for a single pie.

8 oz. thawed durian flesh
8 oz. cream cheese
16 tsp. sugar
8 oz. whipping cream
1 pkg. unflavored gelatin
1/4 cup water
*2 ready-bake pie crusts (follow directions)

Beat the sugar and cream cheese together with electric beaters until fluffy. Puree the durian flesh, then beat into the cream cheese and sugar mixture. Heat the water in a small bowl until boiling or near boiling, then add gelatin grains and stir until dissolved. Stir into the durian mixture. In a separate bowl, beat the whipping cream until you have soft peaks, don't overdo it. Gently fold the whipped cream into the durian mixture until blended. Pour the mixture into the crusts and spread to the edges. Refrigerate at least four hours or until the mixture sets firmly.

Some of my test-tasters were of the opinion that the flavor improves slightly over time, so don't hesitate to make it a day or two ahead. Also, feel free to decorate/garnish it however you like - but keep in mind that some flavors may not mesh well with durian. I found one recipe that adds a fudge layer on top of the durian layer. This might taste delicious, or it might not. But I would consider giving it a try on my second go-round of making this recipe, which I will most certainly be doing.

Matt's Kitchen In D.C. - Durian Cheesecake

Matt's Kitchen in D.C. - Prize Winning Cheesecake Brownies

I work as a judicial clerk at a court located in the District of Columbia. One of the judges on this court (not the judge I work for) recently held a "brownie bake-off" - an event he apparently holds traditionally as part of pre-St. Patricks day festivities. I'm not sure why brownies, exactly, but my competitive spirit and culinary ambition drove me to enter the contest. The first thing I did was to enlist the help of my trusty co-clerk, who I will call Brigitte (not her real name). We decided to each choose a brownie test recipe and make it, and then compare notes. I opted for a cheesecake brownie using marscapone cheese, while she opted for a cocoa-powder based brownie that can only be described as "ultra-chocolatey." We then brought our creations to chambers for our co-workers to sample and provide feedback. Brigitte's came out quite well - they looked attractive, and delivered a deep and not-too-sweet chocolate dose. Mine were more of a failed attempt, unfortunately - the cheese didn't really set properly and browned in an unsightly manner in the oven. The feedback we got was consistent - Brigitte's chocolate brownie was superior, but tasters really liked the cheesecake angle if I could just figure out how to execute it better. So Brigitte and I agreed that I would try to make a revised version over the weekend that combined and improved our respective versions. To boost the cheesecake, I settled on the idea of using half marscapone and half cream cheese, thinking that maybe the cream cheese would help with the consistency and add some tang. Originally I had only added half an egg yolk, but this time I would add one egg yolk plus a whole egg. Finally, I would make a quick chocolate sauce to drizzle over the top, which would add a boost of chocolate flavor and help mask any imperfections in the cheesecake layer. This second recipe was much more successful, so I have included it below.

Finally, as you may have guessed, I am happy to announce that we won 2nd prize for our efforts. There were 21 contestants, so the competition was pretty fierce. Most importantly, our brownies were swept clean before any of the other entries during the post-judging "public consumption." This is the first cooking competition I have ever entered, and while admittedly not "Iron Chef," I am exceedingly happy it went well. Hope you enjoy the recipe -

Cheesecake Brownies

For the chocolate layer:

10 tbsp. butter
1 1/4 cups sugar
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or dutch processed)
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. vanilla
2 eggs
1/2 cup all-purpose flour

For the cheesecake layer:

4 oz. marscapone cheese
4 oz. cream cheese
1 egg plus one egg yolk
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 tsp. vanilla

For the chocolate sauce:

2 oz. bittersweet chocolate
2 tbsp butter
1/8 cup sugar
1/4 tsp. vanilla
1/8 cup water

Preheat the oven to 325, and line an 8x8 pan with tin foil, leaving edges sufficient to lift the cooked brownies out later.

For the chocolate layer: Using a double boiler or a mixing bowl standing in a pan of simmering water, melt the butter gently and slowly add the sugar, cocoa powder and salt. Don't worry if it looks grainy, it will smooth out eventually. Take the mixture off the heat and let cool slightly, then add the vanilla. Stir in one egg at a time, stirring to incorporate completely, then stir in the flour. The mixture should be smooth now - put it into the lined pan and level it off if necessary.

For the cheesecake layer: Add the marscapone and the cream cheese to a mixing bowl and add the eggs, sugar and vanilla. Stir until the mixture is smooth and liquid. Pour it over the chocolate mixture.

Bake the brownie batter for around 30-35 minutes, until the cheesecake is set and a cake tester comes out with a just a small amount of batter on it from the chocolate layer. Remove from the oven and let cool. In the meantime, make the chocolate sauce:

For the chocolate sauce: Chop the chocolate and heat it with the butter in the double boiler or in a small saucepan sitting in a larger pan full of simmering water. Add the sugar and vanilla and stir. Add the water very gradually, getting it to the consistency you want - it should be pourable but slightly thick, not too watery. When the brownies have cooled, use the sauce to create designs on the top, or just splatter it Jackson Pollack-style if you want.

Finally, put the brownies in the freezer until they are cold and on the verge of freezing (don't forget about them!) , then remove them, lift out the tin foil and slice the brownies however you like. They will be much easier to slice cleanly once they have chilled down (however, they are best when served at or near room temperature).

Matt's Kitchen in D.C. - Prize Winning Cheesecake Brownies

Matt's Kitchen in D.C. - Rogan Josh

Rogan Josh is Kashmiri in origin although it seems to be considered one of the "classic" Indian dishes - basically, it is a type of lamb curry with flavors of cinnamon, paprika, cloves and cardamom, among other things. "Rogan" means "oil," and "josh" means heat or boiling, so the name means something like "cooked in oil at intense heat." That being said, the dish does not require a lot of oil, at least the version I made, and if you use lean lamb it does not contain a lot of fat. Another benefit is that it will make your kitchen smell delicious. Finally, and most importantly, it tastes great and it is nearly foolproof if you have the right ingredients.

This version will serve around 6-8 people, depending on the size of their appetites. The ingredients list may look a little daunting but if you have stocked up on the spices ahead of time, like I suggest, the rest of the ingredients are pretty standard.

4 lbs. of lean lamb from the leg or shoulder (*see note)
1/2 tsp. chili or cayenne powder
1 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. peanut or vegetable oil
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
6 green cardamom pods
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup plain yogurt or 5 tbsp. yogurt and 3 tbsp. tamarind water
5 cups hot water (homemade chicken or lamb stock would be excellent here)
1/2 tsp. garam masala

For the paste:
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and chopped
3-6 large red chiles, stemmed, seeded and chopped
10 black peppercorns, crushed (**see note)
1/2 inch piece of cinnamon stick
2 tsp. coriander seeds, crushed
2 tsp. cumin seeds, crushed
3 tsp. paprika
3 cloves, crushed (or healthy pinch of ground cloves)
1 tsp. salt
1/2 cup water

*Note #1: when you buy the lamb, getting it boneless will make your life much easier. You want to cut it into roughly 1 inch chunks, not too small because they shrink when they cook. Also, be sure to clean the fat and silverskin off them if there is any, this will make the pieces chewy.

**Note #2: Don't leave out any spices here! - the best thing to do is stock up on whole spices, then when you need a certain amount, toast them in a pan until brown and grind them with a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder. If you stock up on various common spices, you can basically throw together Indian dishes at will with some meat and veggies

Anyway, on to the recipe. After cutting the meat into cubes, put it in a bowl and rub the chili powder and salt all over it and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large pan and add the onions. Cook until slightly browned, then add the cardomom and bay leaves and stir. Add the meat, turn up the heat a bit and cook for two minutes, then lower it and simmer for 3-4 minutes, covered.

To make the paste, toast all the spices and grind them with a mortar and pestle or in a coffee grinder. Add the other ingredients to a food processor along with the spice mixture and blend until smooth. I would, however, keep out the cinnamon and just add it whole to the onion mixture when you put in the paste.

Unover the pan and stir in the paste, so it is coating the meat. Cover and cook for 5 minutes, then stir in the yogurt and add the hot water. Cover the pan and simmer for around 1 hour.

Uncover the pan and turn up the heat so the sauce is reduced and thick and creamy, with not much additional liquid. This may take a little while, and when you are near done you should try a piece of lamb to make sure it is tender enough - at this point it should be, but if not, then add a little more water. Stir and add the garam masala and also salt and pepper to taste. Serve with basmati rice.

As with many stews, this becomes even better the next day, so don't hesitate to cook it the night before and put it in the fridge overnight.

Matt's Kitchen in D.C. - Rogan Josh

Matt's Kitchen In D.C.: Cooking With Kids - Banana Bread

Banana bread needs no introduction, it is a quick and easy bread that is good to eat just about anytime. Zachary eats at least a banana a day, if not more, so this recipe was not a tough sell. The only difficult part was saving three bananas so they could reach the requisite level of ripeness (i.e., over-ripeness). As with many of the "cooking with kids" recipes I have posted, it follows the familiar formula of combining dry ingredients and wet ingredients separately, and then stirring them all together.


This recipe is a version of one found in The Best Recipe Cookbook, an essential standard cookbook, published by the good folks at Cook's Illustrated magazine - also essential, in my opinion.

3 very ripe, browning bananas - browner is better, within reason
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 cup plain yogurt
2 large eggs, beaten gently
6 tbsp. butter, melted
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/4 cup toasted, chopped walnuts (optional)

Preheat oven to 350. You can bake this in a bread pan, if you have one, or in an 8x8 cake pan. I opted for the cake pan, the only difference is baking time. So go ahead and grease whichever pan you are using.

The most fun part of the recipe, is, of course, mashing the bananas - mash them good! Then add the yogurt, eggs, butter and vanilla and stir to combine.


Whisk together all dry ingredients, including walnuts (we omitted the nuts in our recipe because Zachary generally objects to finding crunchy bits in his food).

Finally, add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients. The trick is here is to fold them in gently with a spatula, and just to the point at which they are combined (i.e. there is no "raw" flour apparent in the mixture). The reason is, the more you stir, the more gluten develops and too much gluten will result in your bread being small and tough. That being said, this may be a good task for the parent to handle, if the child is a potentially vigorous stirrer.

Finally, scrape the batter into the greased pan and put it in the oven. If using a breadpan, the cooking time is about 55 minutes but I would suggest testing it at 40-45 minutes just to be sure. The cake pan time is a lot less, try testing at 30 minutes. For the baking impaired, testing means removing the bread and sticking a cake tester into the middle - if it comes out clean, your bread is done. If it comes out with batter on it, put the bread back in for several more minutes and then test again until you get it right.

Once you are satisfied, let it cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then remove to a wire rack. As the picture illustrates, this bread was extremely popular with Zachary. After spending some time in the fridge, a slice will benefit from a few brief seconds in the microwave to warm it up - or alternatively, you can toast it. Once you have a made it a few times, you could try modifying the recipe - add a 4th banana, for example, or add some chocolate or cocoa powder to the batter.

Matt's Kitchen In D.C.: Cooking With Kids - Banana Bread

Matt's Kitchen In D.C.: Cajun Jambalaya

In honor of the Saints' aggressive victory over the Colts, I am posting a recipe for jambalaya, which happens to be what I was eating during the game. This a cajun jambalaya, in contrast with a creole jambalaya (or "red jambalaya"), which includes tomatoes and seafood. This version contains smoked sausage, chicken and, ideally, tasso - a smoked and spiced ham. Creole jambalaya originated as an attempt by Spaniards to make paella in the New World (absent saffron). Gradually, this dish was introduced to the Cajuns in Lousiana's low country who adapted it the ingredients that they had available. Cajun jambalaya (or "brown jambalaya") is traditionally smokier and spicier than creole jambalaya. The beauty of jambalaya is, of course, that it can be made with a wide variety of ingredients- essentially, whatever is lying around and needs to be eaten. For cajun jambalaya, the smokiness is key so it is important to find some good smoked sausages, like andouille.

1 lb. andouille or other smoked pork sausage
1 – 1 ½ lbs. chicken thighs
½ lb. tasso, cut in 1 inch cubes (if not available, can substitute any smoked pork)
1 medium onion, chopped.
2 tsp minced garlic
1 tbsp. chopped basil leaves
1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme
3 cups chicken stock
1 ½ cups rice

*This recipe should serve 6-8 people. If you are feeding a large crowd, you can double it, but be sure you have a pot that is big enough.

Three important notes concerning ingredients:

First, Tasso is a heavily smoked ham with a spicy, peppery rind. It is hard to find outside of Louisiana but it will take the dish to whole new level if you can find it. In the past I have ordered over the internet at comeaux.com or had someone visiting New Orleans bring me back some. However, if you can’t get some, don’t panic! Any smoked pork will do, and failing that you could add some other type of ham, which while admittedly not the same thing, will do in a pinch.

Second note: Use good quality sausage for this, fresh if possible. The sausages at the Whole Foods deli counter are a good bet. Keep in mind that the sausage ingredients are flavoring the whole dish, so you want them to be strong and good quality.

Third note: Use good quality, homemade chicken stock for this dish – it makes a world of difference. If you do not have stock stashed away in the freezer, just be sure you have a chicken carcass (or a bunch of chicken bones) saved, and a simple but strong stock can be made in a few hours with the addition of some carrots, celery, peppercorns and bay leaves.

Also, don’t use chicken breasts in place of thighs. There is a good chance they will dry out during cooking and toughen up, whereas thighs are much better suited for this type of cooking

1) put the sausages in pan with water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let simmer for ten minutes.

2) In the meantime, chop the chicken things into large-ish bite size pieces. If they are boneless, great – if not, you will have to bone them. The easiest way is find the chopped end of the bone, strip the meat down the bone to the joint, then cut out the joint and remove the bone altogether. You will be left with a nice strip of meat. Set aside the chopped chicken.

3) Remove the sausages from the pan and cut into ¼ inch rounds with a serrated knife. They should be cooked enough to hold together, don’t sweat it if they are a little raw in the middle.

4) In a large pot or dutch oven, add a little olive oil and then the sausages. Saute them over medium heat until browned, maybe 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

5) Without cleaning, add the chicken to the pot and sauté over medium heat until starting to brown. Remove and set aside with the sausage.

6) In the same pot, add the chopped onion and garlic and cook until the onion softens, maybe 7 minutes. Then add the tasso or smoked ham, basil, thyme, some salt and pepper and cook for a few more minutes. Don't be shy about stirring up the brown bits stuck to the pot, this is where the "brown" in "brown jambalaya" comes from, like the "fond" in french cooking. If you like it spicy, you could shake some cayenne pepper in it at this point. Remove all ingredients and store them with the sausage and chicken.

What you have at this point is the jambalaya “base,” which basically means everything except the stock and the rice. You can make it ahead of time and store it the fridge, even a day in advance if necessary.

7) When you are ready to finish the dish, put the "base" in a large pot and add the stock and the rice. Stir thoroughly to combine, then bring to a boil. As soon as it begins to boil, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes.

8) After 25 minutes, take the cover off and stir again to evenly distribute the rice and the meat. Season with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve with hot sauce on the side.

Matt's Kitchen In D.C.: Cajun Jambalaya

Matt's Kitchen: Where To Get A Great Meal In Queens

Queens is considered by the less enlightened to be the ugly stepsister of NYC's "sexier" boroughs (read: Manhattan and Brooklyn). Sure, it does contain two airports, a giant cemetary, numerous highways, industrial sites, power stations and a number of bland neighborhoods. However, having lived there for the past six years, I can report that it easily holds its own when it comes to food. In general, Queens' best restaurants - even the highest rated ones - dispense with the interior design, fussy service and pretension, but deliver great food that is, in many cases, equal to or superior to their peers in Manhattan or Brooklyn. When it comes to Thai food, or Chinese, or Greek, or Indian, or Colombian, Queens is really the go-to borough. And the truth is this: If you are willing to venture way into Queens for a unique dining experience and an excellent meal, you get serious street cred. So let's take a look at some of the places that are worth the trip:

Tournesol (Long Island City)

We'll start out easy - Tournesol is a cute little French bistro right across the river in Long Island City. For those in midtown east, it's probably closer to you than most other parts of Manhattan - just hop on the 7 train and get off at the first stop in Queens. The menu features a solid steak frites, foie gras terrine and an excellent skate wing, among other things - plus, they run many time-tested bistro classics as their "plats du jour" - coq au vin, cassoulet, bouillabaisse, etc. The place is friendly but tiny, so make a reservation ahead of time. Honestly, you can find cute little bistros elsewhere, but this is ours and it's a good one.

La Flor Bakery & Cafe (Woodside)

This takes us further out into Woodside, where underneath the 7 platform at Roosevelt Ave. and 51st street lies La Flor - unassuming on the outside, but featuring absolutely delicious authentic and upscale mexican cooking with a smattering of French and fusion-type dishes. The brunch is a local favorite, and one of the best in Queens, but the place serves great food throughout the day, and features musicians on some evenings. They do great things with eggs here at brunch (think huevos rancheros, and variations thereof), and they serve a hearty and delicious quesadilla which features a thick homemade corn tortilla and is quite unlike other quesadillas. As far as I can tell, they do everything well here, so check it out.

Donovan's Pub (Woodside)

Further up Roosevelt Avenue in the heart of Woodside is Donovan's, a classic Irish pub that also happens to feature one of the best burgers in Manhattan. I make no claim that this is THE best burger (an invitation to a fistfight, or at least an impassioned debate), but it is damn good -a large, meaty, juicy hunk of meat that will not disappoint fans of serious burgers. Also, I should add that it is ranked number 2 in NYC in the "burger rankings" at Burger of The Month. The pub is very charming and a good place to enjoy a Guinness, a burger and some good company. I haven't eaten any of the other food there so I can't comment, but the burger is the big draw. It is right off the Woodside express stop on the 7, which is a quick ride out from Grand Central, so about as convenient as Queens gets.

Sripraphai (Woodside)

Yet another Woodside entry at 39th Ave. and 64th St., what can I say about this place that hasn't already been said? Consistently the #1 NY thai restaurant in the Zagat's survey, Sripraphai packs 'em in and serves up delicious, authentic and spicy thai dishes. It boasts a giant menu with something for just about everybody, and is very inexpensive (it should be noted that the atmosphere is clean and efficient but very much "no frills," so despite its high Zagat rating, don't expect fine dining). It is well worth a trip to Queens just to go here, but I recommend going at off hours if you are attempting a weekend dinner - that is to say, go early before the rush. The place does not take reservations and people spill out on to the street waiting for tables on a saturday night. I particularly enjoy their crispy watercress salad and the fried whole snapper in curry sauce, but just about everything is worth trying. I recommend you go with a lot of people and get a lot of dishes to share. Also, please don't just order the pad thai. It's good, but there is a whole universe out there, you know?

Taverna Kyclades (Astoria)

Astoria is a big-time food destination and is renowned for its Greek restaurants. One that I have particularly enjoyed is Taverna Kyclades, which is located way up Ditmars Blvd. at 33rd Street. This place is very popular and the crowds can be daunting - again, it is best to try going at off hours and even then you will probably wait a little while. But don't let the crowds put you off, the seafood here is absolutely delicious, you can't really go wrong. Again, it is well worth the trip just to eat here, and there are plenty of other things to do in Astoria so you can make an afternoon out of it. As with most restaurants in Queens, this is not a fine dining experience, so don't expect them to roll out the red carpet for you. Also, their website is very unassuming but don't be mislead - you will have a damn good meal and it won't be anywhere near as expensive as what you would pay for similar quality food in Manhattan.

Ali's Kabab Cafe (Astoria)

Kabab Cafe is a tiny Egyptian restaurant way up Steinway Avenue in Astoria, with only a few tables and no enclosed kitchen. All meals are prepared by Ali himself, with the help of one or two assistants, about five feet from where you are sitting. There is no fixed menu, you choose from whatever Ali is cooking that particular day. The best way to experience it is to put yourself in Ali's hands and eat what he feels like making - which includes some of the most delicious falafel and hummus I have ever tasted, as well as a wide assortment of other outstanding Egyptian dishes. However- if you do this, you will very likely be eating adventurously - Ali regularly serves up brains, sweetbreads, "rocky mountain oysters" and various other organs. So don't be squeamish. I found my meal here to be a great experience, but it is not for everyone, and it is not cheap. Basically, it's like eating in Ali's kitchen, with him at the stove. If this sounds appealing to you, check it out for sure - but again, choose your dining time strategically - a restaurant with four tables fills up pretty quick. On the other hand, if you like spacious digs, insist on choosing your selections off a menu and have a low tolerance for offal or North African flavors, then you may be better off elsewhere.

Arunee (Jackson Heights)

So, our tour moves even further out to Jackson Heights. This neighborhood is super-bustling, sort of the crossroads of Queens and possibly the most ethnically diverse zip code in the country. Within about ten square blocks you can find numerous restaurants and shops run by Indians, Peruvians, Thai, Colombians, Malaysians, Mexicans, Ecuadorians and others. There is a lot to eat here and an entire blog could doubtless be devoted to it. With all due respect to the numerous fine restaurants in this neighborhood, I am focusing on a particular favorite of mine, a small and unassuming but delicious thai restaurant on 79th Street off of Roosevelt Avenue called Arunee. This place boasts excellent and authentic thai food that is right up there with what Sripraphai has to offer. Although it seems likely that visitors to Queens will head to Sripraphai, I am adding Arunee here because it used to be my neighborhood thai joint and I have fond memories. Honestly, it is worth coming out to Arunee for the simple reason that Manhattan 's thai options are generally uninspiring and this will be a like a breath of fresh air in comparison. Likewise, if Sripraphai is a madhouse, just take the 7 train two more stops up to 82nd, walk down a couple of blocks and you're there. They do a great veggie curry here, for you vegetarians - unlike the sad offerings at a lot of other places, they load it up with a variety of different hearty veggies and tofu.

Spicy & Tasty (Flushing)

No culinary tour of Queens would be complete without a visit to Flushing for some Chinese food. Spicy & Tasty is located at 39-07 Prince St. off the Flushing/Main Street stop on the 7 (the end of the line). As the name would suggest, it serves seriously spicy and delicious sichuan food. It is not for the faint of heart, so if you do not like spicy foods, you may wish to skip this one. At the front of the restaurant is a refrigerator case stocked with the restaurant's cold dishes. The procedure is, you order whatever cold dishes you want up front, then they take you back to your table and the cold dishes are served quite quickly thereafter. During that time you decide what hot dishes you are going to order. One approach is to peek around at what the Chinese patrons nearby have ordered, and then order that - of course, you have to be willing to be adventurous if you do this. I've really enjoyed this place, but there are of course many different restaurants in this neighborhood, many of which are undoubtably excellent, so it is worth exploring. But if you like Sichuan cooking particularly, this is probably a good bet. Also, for you Mets fans, it is very convenient to Shea Stadium if you are hungry after the game. One word of advice is that you should Google or Mapquest it carefully before showing up, Flushing can be a little hectic and confusing once you get off the 7 train.

These are not the only reasons to come out Queens to eat, but they comprise many of the top foodie destinations. There are a few places I still have not gotten to, such as Spicy Mina's (apparently the Bangladeshi answer to Ali's Kebab Cafe), and Zumm Stammtisch, a Bavarian restaurant in Glendale that looks like a good time. And there are undoubtably others that I have not yet discovered. So don't be afraid to come out to Queens, and don't turn up your nose - there's a lot to like out here.

Matt's Kitchen: Where To Get A Great Meal In Queens

Matt's Kitchen In D.C. - Cooking With Kids: Popovers

Since my son was born almost three years ago, I have unfortunately been up at the crack of dawn nearly every weekend. Over the past year or so, a family tradition has arisen - every saturday and sunday morning, my son and I fix breakfast for ourselves and for momma, who gets to sleep while the cooks are in the kitchen. The only criteria is that the breakfast has to be something special that doesn't get eaten during the week - so no toast or cereal. Most often, we make pancakes or waffles, sometimes with bacon if we have some. Occasionally we will make muffins or coffee cake. These types of recipes work well with a toddler as sous chef because they involve three simple stages - mixing dry ingredients, mixing wet ingredients, and stirring them all together. Thus, there are plenty of opportunities for my son to help out (see picture).

One of my son's favorite weekend breakfasts are popovers. They come out of the oven looking and tasting impressive, but they couldn't be easier. The only problem is that, unlike pancakes, you have to wait awhile for them to cook, which can be difficult. But once they do they are well worth it.

1 cup flour
2 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
2 eggs
1 cup milk
1 tbsp. melted butter, plus more for greasing muffin tin

Put a 12-cup muffin tin in the oven and preheat to 450. Combine the dry ingredients and the wet ingredients separately, then stir them together quickly - just until they are combined, the batter doesn't have to be 100% smooth. Remove the muffin tin from the oven (careful, that thing is hot!) and brush them thoroughly with melted butter, or a neutral oil. Pour the batter in each cup until about 2/3 full. I find this will fill about 9-10 cups.

Bake at 450 for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 and bake for another 20 minutes. During this time, do not open the oven - if you don't have an oven window then you will just need to have faith that they are cooking properly. When finished, remove quickly from the tin and put them in a basket, wrapped in a towel. They really need to be eaten warm (read: as soon as possible) so you want to keep them from cooling.

When done right, they should puff up high above the tin they are baked in, with a crunchy browned exterior and a soft, eggy interior. The exterior should be browned and firm and cooked enough to maintain its shape even when you pry them out of the muffin tin. If they are undercooked they tend to deflate when you remove them - they still taste great, but don't have the pleasing puffed up shape. Of course, cooking times may vary by oven, so if you find that they are overdone or underdone according to my timing above, then adjust accordingly.

They can be eaten just plain, with a little salt or with honey or maple syrup. Also, for a variation try sprinkling some grated cheese on the batter in each cup right before it goes in the oven. My son refuses to eat them with cheese, but I think most people will like it. As a note, a large single popover cooked for a crowd is called a yorkshire pudding, and is a traditional accompaniment for prime rib or a similar meat dish. But that is a subject for another post.

Matt's Kitchen In D.C. - Cooking With Kids: Popovers